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New! The Herrschner's Worsted Palette - thank you to BetwixtTheStitch!
New! We've just added the palette for Deborah Norville Everyday Yarn! If you knit and/or crochet, this is for you. This is a beautiful yarn with a nice feel to it, a good alternative in worsted weight acrylic! (Thank you again to BetwixtTheStitch!)
New! The Red Heart Super Saver Palette - thank you to BetwixtTheStitch!
Welcome to Stitchboard! Feel free to sit and stay awhile. Check out our new Premier features. In addition to the ability to create larger patterns (up to 500 stitches wide), illusion knitting and private labeling (no more worries about editing those pesky and messy PDFs), we've just introduced Filet Crochet, our most popular request! We have many more features planned, too!
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This area shows some random posts from the Community.
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Veronica,
As I always tell people, try to use a photo with the same number of pixels across as you want stitches across. By doing this, the program will not make any changes by dropping pixels so basically, "what you see is what you get" — meaning your pattern should come out looking the same as your photo.
I also had another thought that sometimes improves the quality of your pattern and "averages" out the pixels a bit and maybe would help with your pixelation. You may want to try checking the "Antialias on" box in section 8. This smooths out some areas. It's hard to explain but you may just want to try it to see if your pattern looks better.
Let me know if I can help further!
Terry

See my reply to your question in the "Questions and Answers" area.
To read a particular post, simply click on it!
Susiecue,
Welcome! 

We do recommend
using single crochet (which we identify as "standard stitch," as
people overseas tend to call it double crochet), which should give
the best detail of all. If you were to go to a double or half
double crochet, it would skew your pattern and make it wonky, and
those are larger stitches, which would give less detail. I don't
know that a Tunisian stitch would make it better or worse, and that
would involve starting over completely.
Are
the issues you're having because of colors blending poorly? Or are
the shapes looking a little odd? Would a bit of surface embroidery
shore it up? Just a few ideas that I hope will help you. 

Veronica,
As I always tell people, try to use a photo with the same number of pixels across as you want stitches across. By doing this, the program will not make any changes by dropping pixels so basically, "what you see is what you get" — meaning your pattern should come out looking the same as your photo.
I also had another thought that sometimes improves the quality of your pattern and "averages" out the pixels a bit and maybe would help with your pixelation. You may want to try checking the "Antialias on" box in section 8. This smooths out some areas. It's hard to explain but you may just want to try it to see if your pattern looks better.
Let me know if I can help further!
Terry
Bbell,
Welcome! 

I believe
there's a PDF that you can use for the purpose. I've alerted Terry
(Support) to your message, as he knows more about the PDF. It will
take him a few days to locate it and get back to you.
All the graphs were made here, I chose to make them with
symbols only, instead of colors. Then I printed the graphs and used
colored pencils to use only the colors I wanted, and where I
wanted. Using the cross stitch over tunisian technique, I was able
to use only scrap yarn for the images.

See my reply to your question in the "Questions and Answers" area.

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