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New! The Herrschner's Worsted Palette - thank you to BetwixtTheStitch!
New! We've just added the palette for Deborah Norville Everyday Yarn! If you knit and/or crochet, this is for you. This is a beautiful yarn with a nice feel to it, a good alternative in worsted weight acrylic! (Thank you again to BetwixtTheStitch!)
New! The Red Heart Super Saver Palette - thank you to BetwixtTheStitch!
Welcome to Stitchboard! Feel free to sit and stay awhile. Check out our new Premier features. In addition to the ability to create larger patterns (up to 500 stitches wide), illusion knitting and private labeling (no more worries about editing those pesky and messy PDFs), we've just introduced Filet Crochet, our most popular request! We have many more features planned, too!
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Veronica,
As I always tell people, try to use a photo with the same number of pixels across as you want stitches across. By doing this, the program will not make any changes by dropping pixels so basically, "what you see is what you get" — meaning your pattern should come out looking the same as your photo.
I also had another thought that sometimes improves the quality of your pattern and "averages" out the pixels a bit and maybe would help with your pixelation. You may want to try checking the "Antialias on" box in section 8. This smooths out some areas. It's hard to explain but you may just want to try it to see if your pattern looks better.
Let me know if I can help further!
Terry
Hi,
When you reach the end of the row, you pull up a loop in the last stitch, the you pull another loop through the one you just pulled up (ch 1) before starting your return. Then yarn over and pull through the ch and your first return stitch.
If you don't put that "extra ch" there, your piece will decrease by one stitch.
One more note about the word chart, at the beginning of your row, count your first stitch. So you'll actually start your count with 2.
I find the word charts are much easier than the graph.
Hope this helps.
Hi, all! My name is Kirsten. I have been a member for about a year now and I'm totally embarrassed, but I never took the time to say hi! Please forgive me! I am an avid cross-stitcher and I absolutely love this "Pattern Wizard". I haven't done much cross stitching lately because I am amassing a slew of patterns. I need to get off of this computer and start stitching again, but whenever I find a pic I want to transform it into a pattern. My tastes are Scandinavian cottage chic (Nissen, Uff Da, etc.). Well thanks for listening and again I'm sorry for not doing this sooner!
To read a particular post, simply click on it!
Veronica,
As I always tell people, try to use a photo with the same number of pixels across as you want stitches across. By doing this, the program will not make any changes by dropping pixels so basically, "what you see is what you get" — meaning your pattern should come out looking the same as your photo.
I also had another thought that sometimes improves the quality of your pattern and "averages" out the pixels a bit and maybe would help with your pixelation. You may want to try checking the "Antialias on" box in section 8. This smooths out some areas. It's hard to explain but you may just want to try it to see if your pattern looks better.
Let me know if I can help further!
Terry
Shaleigh,
Well said! 
Thank you for sharing your
experience!
Thank you for sharing your
experience!Lilbj,
Hi, my suggestion would be
to use a graphics program for that. If you're on a PC, I can
suggest two very powerful (and best of all, FREE) programs that are
available that will allow you to remove the background. I know most
people believe Photoshop is the only way to go, but as it's a bit
pricey, I like to suggest these programs. 
I can't tell you how they work, as I
use an ANCIENT (circa 1998 
) program, but there are online
manuals and tutorials that explain how they work.
I can't tell you how they work, as I
use an ANCIENT (circa 1998 ) program, but there are online
manuals and tutorials that explain how they work. Hi,
When you reach the end of the row, you pull up a loop in the last stitch, the you pull another loop through the one you just pulled up (ch 1) before starting your return. Then yarn over and pull through the ch and your first return stitch.
If you don't put that "extra ch" there, your piece will decrease by one stitch.
One more note about the word chart, at the beginning of your row, count your first stitch. So you'll actually start your count with 2.
I find the word charts are much easier than the graph.
Hope this helps.
Hi, all! My name is Kirsten. I have been a member for about a year now and I'm totally embarrassed, but I never took the time to say hi! Please forgive me! I am an avid cross-stitcher and I absolutely love this "Pattern Wizard". I haven't done much cross stitching lately because I am amassing a slew of patterns. I need to get off of this computer and start stitching again, but whenever I find a pic I want to transform it into a pattern. My tastes are Scandinavian cottage chic (Nissen, Uff Da, etc.). Well thanks for listening and again I'm sorry for not doing this sooner!
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