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New! The Herrschner's Worsted Palette - thank you to BetwixtTheStitch!
New! We've just added the palette for Deborah Norville Everyday Yarn! If you knit and/or crochet, this is for you. This is a beautiful yarn with a nice feel to it, a good alternative in worsted weight acrylic! (Thank you again to BetwixtTheStitch!)
New! The Red Heart Super Saver Palette - thank you to BetwixtTheStitch!
Welcome to Stitchboard! Feel free to sit and stay awhile. Check out our new Premier features. In addition to the ability to create larger patterns (up to 500 stitches wide), illusion knitting and private labeling (no more worries about editing those pesky and messy PDFs), we've just introduced Filet Crochet, our most popular request! We have many more features planned, too!
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Hi Melanie,
Your shift work you did sounded quite frustrating. I am not a phone person, don't like to talk on them and use mine mainly as my portable internet instead. If my tablet had phone availability I would do away with the phone itself.
I hate weaving ends in too. The vulture tapestry I have not used the end tuck method throughout it. Instead I tie the new thread to the old one, slip the ends close and continue away. Since it will have a suede backing attached to it and is a wall hanging I know it will not have extra stress on it and should never coem apart like a bracelt or something used daily would. Unfortunately there is nothing I can do with this particular piece excet tuck all warp threads in and hide them. I used Fireline for the warp which I will not do again for one this large. I prefer the Nymo so it can be tightened as neede once started. The Fireline does not have much give beyond the initial tightening and as the beads are worked in and it needs adjusting it has broke 3 threads I ahd to repair with beading in place. Was not a feat I enjoyed, but nmanaged it to the best of my ability. The edges were not as smooth going from side to side as I like on my loom work, but usiong the springs provided with the Mirrix loom it is hard to set them and keep them spread apart like I prefer. I will remodel this loom and change the springs for threaded bars next tiem I use it for bead work. Some folks don't like threaded bars, but for me the warps stay in place and can be tightened better. The spring for me kept stretching and sagging. I have it tied & held down in a way the Miorrix company would gasp from horror if they saw it!
The square stitch method I developed for my own beading in the early years and picking up a line at a tiem of beads did require learning just how much slack to give the line so as I sewed each 2 bead section into the next it took up the slack and came out with all gone once at the end of the line. Given soem beads , especially back then were not uniform and the slack allowed for that and kept the piece from buckling. It's kinda' not a way to bead I think a person would pick up on if not shown in person how to judge the slack. When my son was a teen he learned and did nice work. He just never continued with his craft work. Back then he learned to crochet, sew, bead and cross stitch. It was fun teaching him to do those things since I didn't have a daughter to spend time with.
Can not open my file on my phone, help please
Welcome!
I'm not sure if I'm understanding what you'd like to do, so if I get this wrong please let me know!
In attempting to make a photo into a pattern with the freePatternWizard, you're not getting optimal results. Your image is perhaps quite large?
First, I have to say, you can't think of the freePatternWizard as a graphics program. I know, it makes graphs, but it's not efficient at taking little bits of each sampled area and turning them into useful, optimized pictures.
What you need to do is to use a graphics program to reduce your image. While the freePatternWizard doesn't know how to optimize an image to take one pixel out of, say, 50 other pixels, this is what graphics programs can do. There are free programs that are very powerful, paint.net and Gimp. You can find them here:
paint.net
Gimp
I won't be able to tell you how to use either one, as what I use is an ancient program called Paint Shop Pro, and it's nowhere near a current version...it's probably from the late '90s!
So combine the two photos, positioning the two of them the way you want in a graphics program, you can then take the results from the graphic program to the freePatternWizard.
Now, there are a couple of things of which you need to be aware. If your image is a very large jpg file, a graphics program will very likely be able to make it smaller, but if it's a small image with color smudges and other issues, you won't get good results if you try to reduce it. You could still try, but the results may not be to your liking.
If you are successful in combining and reducing the size of your originals, my suggestion would be to save them in either a png or a gif format...and definitely not a jpg. Those versions will provide better quality images, because if you save it to jpg, you'll probably get extremely low quality images, which will smudge some of the colors together and not look very nice.
One other thing: for crochet, you should choose the Stitchboard Basic Palette. The Stitchboard Full Palette has far too many colors to be of use, as no yarn manufacturers want to make numerous different shades of each color available in yarns, as they'd never sell a lot of them.
To read a particular post, simply click on it!
Pondwater,
Welcome!
There is an
option in step #6 for number of stitches, which is set to default
to 80. Change that 80 to the number of stitches across that you
want. For example, if you want 20 stitches, you'd change 80 to
20.
HTH!
This one is 200 stitches across and
much too large to get into a single frame. Cross stitch over
tunisian.
Hi Melanie,
Your shift work you did sounded quite frustrating. I am not a phone person, don't like to talk on them and use mine mainly as my portable internet instead. If my tablet had phone availability I would do away with the phone itself.
I hate weaving ends in too. The vulture tapestry I have not used the end tuck method throughout it. Instead I tie the new thread to the old one, slip the ends close and continue away. Since it will have a suede backing attached to it and is a wall hanging I know it will not have extra stress on it and should never coem apart like a bracelt or something used daily would. Unfortunately there is nothing I can do with this particular piece excet tuck all warp threads in and hide them. I used Fireline for the warp which I will not do again for one this large. I prefer the Nymo so it can be tightened as neede once started. The Fireline does not have much give beyond the initial tightening and as the beads are worked in and it needs adjusting it has broke 3 threads I ahd to repair with beading in place. Was not a feat I enjoyed, but nmanaged it to the best of my ability. The edges were not as smooth going from side to side as I like on my loom work, but usiong the springs provided with the Mirrix loom it is hard to set them and keep them spread apart like I prefer. I will remodel this loom and change the springs for threaded bars next tiem I use it for bead work. Some folks don't like threaded bars, but for me the warps stay in place and can be tightened better. The spring for me kept stretching and sagging. I have it tied & held down in a way the Miorrix company would gasp from horror if they saw it!
The square stitch method I developed for my own beading in the early years and picking up a line at a tiem of beads did require learning just how much slack to give the line so as I sewed each 2 bead section into the next it took up the slack and came out with all gone once at the end of the line. Given soem beads , especially back then were not uniform and the slack allowed for that and kept the piece from buckling. It's kinda' not a way to bead I think a person would pick up on if not shown in person how to judge the slack. When my son was a teen he learned and did nice work. He just never continued with his craft work. Back then he learned to crochet, sew, bead and cross stitch. It was fun teaching him to do those things since I didn't have a daughter to spend time with.
Can not open my file on my phone, help please
Welcome!
I'm not sure if I'm understanding what you'd like to do, so if I get this wrong please let me know!
In attempting to make a photo into a pattern with the freePatternWizard, you're not getting optimal results. Your image is perhaps quite large?
First, I have to say, you can't think of the freePatternWizard as a graphics program. I know, it makes graphs, but it's not efficient at taking little bits of each sampled area and turning them into useful, optimized pictures.
What you need to do is to use a graphics program to reduce your image. While the freePatternWizard doesn't know how to optimize an image to take one pixel out of, say, 50 other pixels, this is what graphics programs can do. There are free programs that are very powerful, paint.net and Gimp. You can find them here:
paint.net
Gimp
I won't be able to tell you how to use either one, as what I use is an ancient program called Paint Shop Pro, and it's nowhere near a current version...it's probably from the late '90s!
So combine the two photos, positioning the two of them the way you want in a graphics program, you can then take the results from the graphic program to the freePatternWizard.
Now, there are a couple of things of which you need to be aware. If your image is a very large jpg file, a graphics program will very likely be able to make it smaller, but if it's a small image with color smudges and other issues, you won't get good results if you try to reduce it. You could still try, but the results may not be to your liking.
If you are successful in combining and reducing the size of your originals, my suggestion would be to save them in either a png or a gif format...and definitely not a jpg. Those versions will provide better quality images, because if you save it to jpg, you'll probably get extremely low quality images, which will smudge some of the colors together and not look very nice.
One other thing: for crochet, you should choose the Stitchboard Basic Palette. The Stitchboard Full Palette has far too many colors to be of use, as no yarn manufacturers want to make numerous different shades of each color available in yarns, as they'd never sell a lot of them.
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